The white lake
Tso Kar means 'white lake', after the salt on its shore. The Changpa sold this salt in Tibet, and the trail past Kyamar carried it to Leh.
After the trail · the almanac
The trek in four numbers
A remote crossing of high plateau and salt lakes. There are no villages or tea houses between Rumtse and Korzok.
5,435m
Yalung Nyau La
98km
Walking, over 7 days
6passes
All above 5,000 m
2lakes
Tso Kar and Tso Moriri
💪 Difficult☀️ Jul–Aug⛺ Camping🪪 PAP for foreigners
Day by day
Seven days, step by step
This is Ju-Leh Adventure's plan. Bikat and Himalaya Shelter walk the same line over 7–8 days, with slightly different camps.
How high you are on each kilometre
- Day 1Leh → Rumtse → Kyamar80 km drive, then a gentle valley10.9 km · 4 h⛺ Tents · 4,538 m
- Day 2Kyamar → TisalingOver Kyamar La and Mandalchan La13.5 km · 6–7 h⛺ Tents · 4,940 m
- Day 3Tisaling → PonganaguOver Shibuk La to Tso Kar14.3 km · 6 h⛺ Tents · 4,651 m
- Day 4Ponganagu → NuruchanDown the west side of Tso Kar17.8 km · 5–6 h⛺ Tents · 4,679 m
- Day 5Nuruchan → Gyamar BarmaOver Horlam Kongka La and Kyamayuri La19.3 km · 7–8 h⛺ Tents · 5,195 m
- Day 6Gyamar Barma → GyamarOver Kartse La5.7 km · 3 h⛺ Tents · 5,157 m
- Day 7Gyamar → KorzokOver Yalung Nyau La to Tso Moriri16.3 km · 5–6 h🛏️ Korzok · 4,552 m
Stories and nature
Salt, cranes and nomads
Cranes and geese
Tso Kar is a key breeding site for the black-necked crane. Tso Moriri is the bar-headed goose's only breeding ground in India. Both lakes are Ramsar wetlands.
The Changpa
The Changpa are nomadic herders of Tibetan origin. They keep yaks, sheep, horses and pashmina goats on these plateaus.
Korzok
Korzok is the only year-round village on Tso Moriri. In 2000 its people declared the lake a 'Sacred Gift for a Living Planet'.
When to go
A short summer
Bikat runs this trek from late June to mid-September. Ju-Leh's departures run June to September.
June
The season opens. Ju-Leh's first departures are in early June.
July–August
The best months. Days 10–20 °C, nights 5 to −5 °C.
September
The last departures, by mid-month.
October–May
Not run. The roads to Leh are open only from about mid-May to October.
Plan your trip
Getting to Rumtse
Leh is the start and end. Spend two or three days there first to acclimatise.
- Leh🚙 About 80 km to Rumtse, 2 h
- Rumtse🥾 98 km over 7 days
- Korzok🚙 215 km back to Leh, about 7 h
- Leh
There is no bus from Korzok: book the return taxi before you start. Fly to Leh, or drive from Manali or Srinagar in about 2 days.
Cost
Bikat's 11-day trip from Leh is ₹55,000 + 5% GST. Ju-Leh's 11-day fixed departure is €1,250.
Permits
Indians pay Leh's environment, Red Cross and wildlife fees online. Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit for Tso Moriri, through a Leh agent, in a group of two or more.
Grade
Bikat: difficult, BRS 6. Ju-Leh: level 4, with six passes above 5,000 m.
Altitude
The whole trek stays above 4,000 m, so the risk of altitude sickness is high. Acclimatise in Leh first.
For foreign trekkers
What's different for you
Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit for Tso Moriri, arranged through a registered Leh travel agent for groups of two or more. Rules change: confirm with the issuing office before you travel. Checked October 2026.
Protected Area Permit
Tso Moriri is a protected area. Foreigners need a permit, applied for through a registered travel agent in Leh, not online. Bring your passport, a copy of your Indian visa and passport photos; it takes 1–2 working days. JTreks permits guide (May 2026)
Two or more, for 7 days
The permit needs at least two foreigners on one sheet; Leh agents can pair a solo traveller with another applicant. It is usually valid for up to 7 days, so list every area you will visit. Ride & Fire PAP guide (May 2026)
Fee
Guides put the government fee at ₹500–600, plus ₹200–400 for the agent. Check the amount with your Leh agent. Ride & Fire PAP guide (May 2026)
Some passports need Delhi
Citizens of Pakistan, Afghanistan, China, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Hong Kong, and holders of diplomatic, UN, official or journalist passports, need the permit from the Home or External Affairs ministry in New Delhi. Leh District permit portal
Insurance
Bikat Adventures' trek insurance does not cover foreign nationals. Bring your own travel medical insurance. Bikat Adventures
Good to know
The small things
Cash, signal, water, permits and help on the way. Checked October 2026; confirm with your operator.
Bring cash
Leh has plenty of ATMs. There are none on the trail. Bikat Adventures
Phone signal
Only postpaid SIMs work in Ladakh. BSNL has the best coverage, then Airtel, but on the trek it comes and goes. Bikat Adventures
Emergency phone and exit
Thugje village, about 3 km from the Ponganagu camp, has a satellite phone. Ponganagu is the only exit point if someone must leave the trek. Himalayan Ecotourism
No charging
Your Leh hotel is the last place to charge. The camps have no electricity. Bikat Adventures
Carry water
There is no water source on the day from Ponganagu to Nuruchan. Fill up before you leave camp. Bikat Adventures
Food and toilets
Vegetarian meals, with eggs on some days. Camps have dry-pit toilet tents; bring your own toilet paper. Bikat Adventures
Cold nights
Summer days are about 10–20 °C. Nights at the camps fall to 5 °C or as low as −5 °C. Bikat Adventures
Permit fees
Leh's fee covers an environment fee, the Red Cross fund and a wildlife fee. Pay it online on the district permit portal; agents get 10% off. Leh District permit portal
Offloading
Bikat charges ₹3,750 to carry your rucksack for the whole trek. Himalaya Shelter charges ₹500 a bag a day, up to 12 kg. Himalaya Shelter
Getting back
No buses run from Korzok to Leh. Book a taxi in advance for the 211–220 km drive. Himalaya Shelter
What to pack
Your checklist
Tick items as you pack. Your ticks stay saved on this device.
Clothing
Shoes
Gear
Papers and money
Health
List from Bikat Adventures: things to carry.
Who runs it
Choose an operator
We found 5 operators with a page for this trek in October 2026. Only Ju-Leh Adventure, based in Leh, lists dated departures (June to September 2027), priced in euros.
Prices are base prices from each operator's own page (October 2026); most add 5% GST. Ratings are what each operator shows, not an independent audit. Names marked † show last season's price or one seen only in a search snippet.